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Acetate
Acetate, a synthetic manmade
fabric, is manufactured from cellulose fibers and usually used in
linings. It is an inexpensive fabric with poor washing abilities and
should be dry-cleaned.
Acrylic
Acrylic is often used in
place of wool as an inexpensive synthetic substitute. It is warm and
lightweight, it washes well, and is less expensive than wool.
Alpaca
The lower grades of alpaca
were originally used as linings, and the better grades for fine dress
goods. True alpaca cloth of alpaca hair is soft and lightweight.
Antique satin
Antique satin is a reversible
satin-weave fabric with satin floats on the technical face and surface
slubs on the technical back created by using slub-filling yarns. It is
usually used with the technical back as the right side for drapery
fabrics and often made of a blend of fibers.
Astrakhan
Rough fabric with closely
curled face resembling Astrakhan lamb's pelt. Astrakhan is woven or
knit, usually with base yarns of cotton and pile of wool, mohair,
acrylic or modacrylic fibers.
Barathea
Barathea is a smooth-faced
worsted uniform fabric constructed of an indistinct twilled basket weave
of fine two-ply yarns.
Bathrobe blanketing
Double-faced fabric woven
with tightly twisted warp and two sets of soft spun filling yarns.
Bathrobe blanketing is usually napped to produce soft, thick, warm
material. Made of cotton, wool, polyester, acrylic, and blends of these
fibers.
Batiste
Batiste is an opaque,
lightweight, spun yarn plain-weave fabric with a smooth surface. When
made of cotton or cotton/polyester, the yarns are usually combed. It can
be made of all wool, silk, or rayon.
Bedford cord
Bedford cord is a heavy,
warp-faced, unbalanced pique-weave fabric with wide warp cords created
by extra filling yarns floating across the back to give a raised effect.
Bengaline
Bengaline is a lustrous,
durable, warp-faced fabric with heavy filling cords completely covered
by the warp.
Blanket cloth
Blanket cloth can have plain
or twill weaves. Thick, soft-filling yarns heavily napped both sides.
Often yarndyed in plaids or stripes.
Bouclé
Bouclé, a fabric woven or
knitted from curled or specially twisted yarn, has small loops on the
surface, which gives it a kinky appearance. The curls do not cover the
entire surface but occur at intervals, distinguishing it from astrakhan.
Often made in coating weights but also in lighter weights for dress
goods and sweaters.
Broadcloth
Broadcloth is a close
plain-weave fabric made of cotton, rayon, or a blend of either cotton or
rayon with polyester. It has a fine rib in the filling direction caused
by slightly larger filling yarns, filling yarns with a lower twist, or a
higher warp-yarn count. High-quality broadcloth is made with plied warp
and filling yarns. The fabric may be mercerized. It has a soft, firm
hand. The term broadcloth is also used to refer to a plain- or
twill-weave lustrous wool or woo-blend fabric that is highly napped and
then pressed flat.
Brocade
Brocade is a jacquard-woven
fabric with a pattern that is created with different colors or with
patterns in twill or satin weaves on a ground of plain, twill, or satin
weave. It is available in a variety of fiber contents and qualities.
Buckram
Buckram is a heavy, very
still, spun-yarn fabric converted from cheesecloth gray goods with
adhesives and fillers. It is used as an interlining to stiffen
pinch-pleated, window-treatment fabrics.
Bunting
Bunting is a lightweight,
sheer, plain-woven fabric with a very soft texture. It may be natural
colored, bleached, or dyed. It usually has a very low count. If dyed, it
may be called bunting and could be used for flags or banners. Also
called cheesecloth.
Burlap
Burlap is a coarse, heavy,
loosely woven plain-weave fabric often made of single irregular yarns of
jute. It is used in its natural color for carpet backing, bagging, and
furniture webbing. It is also dyed and printed for home-furnishing uses.
Also called hessian.
Calico
A low-count or medium-count
cotton or cotton/manmade print-cloth with small early American designs.
Calico is often used for aprons, dresses, curtains, and quilts.
Cambric
Cambric is a fine, firm,
plain weave balanced fabric with starch, and has a slight luster on one
side.
Camel hair
In undyed form, camel hair is
light tan and with a soft nap. Fabrics that merely have this distinctive
color cannot be correctly called camel hair. The best grade is very
expensive, and even then, camel hair is sometimes mixed with sheep's
wool or other fibers.
Candlewick
Candlewick, a muslin-base
fabric tufted with heavy plied yarns, provides fuzzy designs.
Canvas
Canvas, a heavy, firm, strong
fabric often made of cotton or acrylic, is often used for awnings,
slipcovers, and covers for boats. It is produced in many grades and
qualities. Canvas is made in plain or basket weave.
Cashmere
Real cashmere fabric is woven
only from the hair of the Cashmere goat. It is of fine close twill
weave, napped, and extremely soft. The total amount of cashmere hair
available is severely limited.
Cavalry twill
Calvary twill is a steep,
pronounced, double-wale line, smooth-surfaced twill fabric.
Challis (shal'i)
Challis is a lightweight,
spun yarn, plain weave, balanced fabric with a soft finish. It can be
made of any staple fiber or blend of fibers.
Chambray
Chambray is a plain-weave
fabric usually of cotton, rayon, or a blend of these with polyester.
Usually chambray has white yarns in the filling direction and yarn-dyed
yarns in the warp direction. Iridescent chambray is made with one color
in the warp and a second color in the filling. It can also be made in
striped patterns.
Charmeuse
Silk, rayon, or cotton satin
weave fabric with semi lustrous surface and dull back. Charmeuse is
often used for dresses, gowns, and pajamas.
Charvet silk
Soft charvet silk has
diagonal rib weaves with stripes. It drapes well and is often used for
neckties.
Cheesecloth
Cheesecloth is a lightweight,
sheer, plain-woven fabric with a very soft texture. It may be natural
colored, bleached, or dyed. It usually has a very low count. If dyed, it
may be called bunting and could be used for flags or banners.
Chenille
Chenille is a fluff or
fuzzy-faced fabric made with a chenille filling yarn that has a fuzzy
pile protruding from all sides. Some imitations are made by tufting
other materials while other versions are knit to imitate chenille yarn.
Chiffon
Chiffon, a balanced,
plain-woven fabric, is sheer and very lightweight. It includes fine
crepe twist yarns of approximately the same size used in warp and
filling.
China silk
China silk is a soft,
lightweight, opaque, plain-weave fabric made from fine-filament yarns
and used for apparel.
Chino
Chino is a steep-twill fabric
with a slight sheen, often made in a bottom-weight fabric of cotton or
cotton/polyester. It is often made of combed two-ply yarns in both warp
and filling and vat-dyed in khaki.
Chintz
Chintz, cotton print cloth of
high-count plain weave, typically features bright, attractive floral or
geometric designs, both large and small. It is often used for draperies,
slipcovers, and dresses. Glazed chintz has a permanent or semi-permanent
glaze.
Cloque fabric
"Cloque fabric" refers to any
fabric with a puckered or blistered effect.
Corduroy
Corduroy is a filling-yarn
pile fabric where the pile is created by long-filling floats that are
cut and brushed in the finishing process. The ground weave may be either
a plain or twill weave.
Cotton
Cotton, a white vegetable
fiber grown in warmer climates in many parts of the world, has been used
to produce many types of fabric for hundreds of years. Cotton fabric
feels good against the skin regardless of the temperature or the
humidity and is therefore in great demand by the consumer.
Crash
Crash is a medium- to
heavyweight plain-weave fabric made from slub or irregular yarns to
create an irregular surface.
Crepe
Crepe has a pebbly or
crinkled surface produced by use of special crepe yarns. Can be crepe,
granite, or plain weave. Generally, mixed-twist crepe yarns used in both
warp and filling; occasionally crepe yarns used only in the warp or the
filling. Crepe effects can also be obtained by chemical treatment and
embossing.
Crepe charmeuse
Crepe charmeuse is a smooth,
soft luster fabric of grenadine silk warp and filling, with latter given
crepe twist. It has the body and drape of satin and is used for dresses
and eveningwear.
Crepe-back satin
Crepe-back satin is a satin
weave of silk or manmade fiber with a crepe-twist filling. As the fabric
is reversible, interesting effects can be obtained by contrasting the
surfaces. Used for dresses, blouses, and linings. Also called satin
crepe.
Damask
Damask is a reversible, flat,
jacquard-woven fabric with a stain weaves in both the pattern and the
plainweave ground. It can be one color or two. In two-color damasks, the
color reverses on the opposite side. It is used in apparel and home
furnishings.
Denim
Denim is a cotton or
cotton/polyester blend, twill-weave, and yarn dyed fabric. Usually the
warp is colored and the filling is white. It is usually left-hand twill
that is commonly available with a blue warp and white filling for use in
apparel. It is available in a variety of weights.
Doeskin
There are two different types
of doeskin: (1) Fine quality, close compact wool fabric, satin weave,
smooth face, light nap finish. Used for suits and coats. (2) Rayon twill
or small satin with face nap. Used for suits, coats, and sportswear.
Double cloth
Double cloth is a fabric made
by weaving two fabrics with five sets of yarns: two sets of warp, two
sets of filling, and one set that connects the two fabrics.
Double knit
"Double knit" refers to any
filling-knit fabric made on two needle beds.
Double weave
Double weave is a fabric made
by weaving two fabrics with four sets of yarns (two sets of warp and two
sets of filling yarns) on the same loom. The two fabrics are connected
by periodically reversing the positions of the two fabrics from top to
bottom. Double weave is also known as pocket cloth or pocket weave.
Drill
Drill is a strong, medium- to
heavyweight, warp-faced, twill-weave fabric. It is usually a 2/1
left-handed twill and piece dyed.
Duck
Duck, a strong, heavy, plain
or basket-weave fabric, comes in a variety of weights and qualities. It
is similar to canvas, usually made from cotton.
Embossing
Embossing creates a design on
fabrics using heated, engraved calendars. Often print cloths are
embossed to imitate seersucker, crepe, or other structural-design
fabrics.
Faille
Faille is a medium- to
heavyweight, unbalanced, plain-weave fabric with filament yarns and a
light luster. It is warp-faced, flat ribs created by using heavier
filling yarns.
Felt
Felt, a fiberweb fabric of at
least 70 percent wool, is made by interlocking the scales of wool fibers
using heat, moisture, and agitation.
Flannel
Light- to heavyweight, plain-
or twill-weave flannel has a napped surface.
Flannelette
Flannelette is a light- to
medium-weight, plain-weave cotton or cotton-blend fabric lightly napped
on one side.
Fleece
Fleece has a deep, soft
nap. The term "felt" can apply to flat woven or knit fabrics as well as
to those woven on the pile principle. The long nap or pile provides many
air spaces, resulting in a fabric with high insulative properties.
Friezé
Friezé is a strong, durable,
heavy-warp yarn pile fabric. The pile is made by the over-wire method to
create a closed-loop pile.
Gabardine (gaberdine)
Gabardine is a tightly woven,
medium- to heavyweight, steep- or regular-angle, twill-weave fabric with
a pronounced wale. Gabardine can be wool, a wool-blend, or
synthetic-fiber content designed to look like wool. Gabardine can also
be 100 percent texturized polyester or a cotton/polyester blend.
Gauze
Gauze is a sheer,
lightweight, low-count, plain- or leno-weave balanced fabric made up
spun yarns. It is often cotton, rayon, or a blend of these fibers.
Indian gauze has a crinkled look and is available in a variety of fabric
weights.
Georgette
Georgette is a sheer,
lightweight, plain weave fabric made with fine-crepe yarns. It is
crepier and less lustrous than chiffon.
Gingham
Gingham, a yarn-dyed, plain
weave fabric, is available in a variety of weights and qualities. It may
be balanced or unbalanced and made of either combed or carded yarns. If
two colors of yarn are used, the fabric is called a check or checked
gingham. If three or more colors are used, the fabric is called plaid
gingham.
Gossamer
Gossamer is a very soft,
gauzelike veiling originally of silk.
Granada
Granada is a fine,
face-finished fabric with a granular surface. It's made of worsted yarn
and often dyed black.
Gray goods (grey goods
or greige goods)
Gray goods, also spelled grey
goods and greige goods, is a general term used to describe any
unfinished woven or knitted fabric.
Grosgrain (grow´grain)
Grosgrain is a tightly woven,
firm, warp-faced fabric with heavy, round filling ribs created by a
high-warp count and coarse filling yarns. Grosgrain can be woven as a
narrow-ribbon or a fullwidth fabric.
Habutai
Habutai, a soft, lightweight
silk fabric, is heavier than China silk.
Handkerchief linen
Similar in luster and count
to batiste, handkerchief linen is linen or linen-lile fabric with slub
yarns and a little more body.
Herringbone
a broken twill-weave fabric
created by changing the direction of the twill wale from right to left
and back again. This creates a chevron pattern of stripes that may be or
may not be equally prominent. Herringbone fabrics are made in a variety
of weights, patterns, and fiber contents.
Hessian
Hessian is a coarse, heavy,
loosely woven plain-weave fabric often made of single irregular yarns of
jute. It is used in its natural color for carpet backing, bagging, and
furniture webbing. It is also dyed and printed for home-furnishing uses.
Also called hessian. Also called burlap.
Homespun
"Homespun" refers to a
coarse, plain weave fabric with a hand-woven look.
Hopsacking
Hopsacking is a coarse,
loosely woven suiting-or bottom-weight basket-weave fabric often made of
lowgrade cotton.
Houndstooth check
Houndstooth check is a
medium- to heavyweight, yarn-dyed twill-weave fabric in which the
interlacing and color pattern creates a unique pointed-check or
houndstooth shape.
India silk
India silk is a very thin,
soft, hand-loomed plain weave fabric made chiefly in India.
Interlock
"Interlock" refers to a firm,
double filling knit where the two needle beds knit two-interlocked 1 x 1
rib fabrics. Both sides of the fabric look like the face side of jersey.
Irish poplin
There are two types of Irish
poplin: (1) Originally a fabric constructed with silk warp and wool
filling in plain weave with fine rib. (2) Fine linen or cotton shirting
also made in Ireland. Sometimes used for neckwear.
Khaki
Khaki is a tan or dusty
colored warp face twill, softer and finer than drill. Name derived from
East India word meaning "earth color." Fabric made of cotton, linen,
wool, worsted, or manmade fibers and blends.
La Coste
La Coste uses a double-knit
fabric made with a combination of knit and tuck stitches to create a
mesh-like appearance. It is often a cotton or cotton/polyester blend.
Lace
Lace is an openwork fabric
with yarns that are twisted around each other to form complex patterns
or figures. Lace may be hand or machine made by a variety of fabrication
methods including weaving, knitting, crocheting, and knotting.
Lamé
Lamé uses flat metal threads
to form a pattern or background. Used chiefly for eveningwear.
Lawn
Lawn is a fine, opaque,
lightweight, and plain weave fabric usually made of combed-cotton or
cottonblend yarns. The fabric may be bleached, dyed, or printed.
Leno
"Leno" refers to any
leno-weave fabric in which two warp yarns are crossed over each other
and held in place by a filling yarn. Leno weaves require a doup
attachment on the loom.
Linen
Linen comes in various
weights, from fine and lightweight linen used for fine shirts to heavier
weight, more durable linen used for pants and jackets. Linen has the
tendency to crease and often needs ironing.
Lining twill
Lining twill is an opaque,
lightweight, warp-faced twill of filament yarns. It may be printed.
Loden clothe
Loden cloth is a heavily
fulled or felted fabric originating in Austrian Tyrol. Wool may be
blended with camel hair or alpaca. Thick, soft, waterproof without
chemical treatment. Sometimes given fine nap. Used for coats,
sportswear.
Lycra®
Lycra® is Invista's trademark
brand of spandex.
Madras
Cotton fabric of plain weave
coarse yarns. Madras usually comes in stripes, checks, or plaids. Colors
may bleed. Used for shirting.
Marble silk
Marble silk is a lightweight
silk fabric of warp-printed yarn or multicolored filling, which imparts
mottled appearance. Used for dresses.
Marquisette
Marquisette is a sheer and
lightweight leno-weave fabric usually made of filament yarns.
Matelassé
Matelassé a raised figured
pattern in a blistered, quilted effect. Woven on a Jacquard or dobby
loom. Double warp-face material stitched together in warp and filling.
Face of cloth has a fine warp and filling, the back a fine warp and
heavy filling. Comes in various weights and used for blouses, dresses,
and upholstery.
Melton
Melton is a well-fulled or
felted overcoating fabric with a smooth, hard finish and close-cropped
nap. It is generally available in plain colors. Coarser meltons similar
to mackinac cloth, but sometimes made of fine, soft wools to produce
smooth coating fabric with finish like broadcloth. Also made with wool
blends.
Microfiber
Shortened form of the term "microdenier
fiber", with "denier" being a measure of fiber size. Microfiber is a
synthetic fiber, which is extremely fine and can be spun from polyester,
nylon, rayon, acetate, or a combination of these. It can be blended with
natural fibers to produce a strong durable fabric that is soft and
water-resistant.
Milanese
Milanese is a warp knitted
fabric with a distinctive diagonal. Made of any filament fiber. Used for
gloves, lingerie.
Mohair
Mohair yarns and fabrics are
bright and lustrous. Warp yarns of cotton or worsted generally used in
flat mohair fabrics. Mohair pile fabrics used in automobiles and for
upholstery usually have pile introduced as warp, but in such a fashion
that the special system of threads is not subjected to severe tension.
Moiré
Moiré watermark designs are
embossed on plain-weave fabrics that have crosswise ribs. Usually of
silk, rayon, acetate, or nylon. Marking permanent on the thermoplastic
fibers. Cotton moiré is made with compact plain weave and given finish
that is permanent if washed with care in lukewarm water, mild soap, and
no bleach.
Moleskin
Moleskin is a napped, heavy,
strong fabric often made in a satin weave. The nap is suede-like.
Monk's (druid's) cloth
Monk's cloth is a basket
weave, a variation of the plain weaves. Made with heavy rough yarns. Can
be a 1 x 1, 2 x 2, 4 x 4, or 8 x 8 thread; the best known is the 4 x 4.
These four threads in warp and filling are placed flat together and
woven over and under in a plain weave; the resulting appearance is that
of a basket. Used for drapery and upholstery.
Mummy clothe
There are two different types
of mummy clothe: (1) fine, closely woven linen fabric used in Egypt for
wrapping mummies. (2) Dull crepe fabric of silk or cotton warp and wool
filling.
Muslin
Muslin is a firm, medium- to
heavyweight, plain weave cotton fabric made in a variety of qualities.
Muslin made with low-grade cotton fiber with small pieces from the
cotton plant is often used in apparel design.
Nacre velvet
Nacre velvet has pile of one
color and back of another, giving a mother-of-pearl, changeable
appearance.
Net
"Net" refers to any
open-construction fabric whether it is created by weaving, knitting,
knotting, or another method.
Nylon
Nylon is a lightweight
manmade synthetic fabric with excellent strength and durability,
suitable for many different uses. Often blended with natural fibers to
give extra strength and better washing qualities.
Oilcloth
Oilcloth sheetings or
printcloth that are printed, bleached, or dyed, and given a special
linseed oil and pigment preparation. Used for table coverings,
waterproof outerwear; now largely replaced by plastic-coated and vinyl
materials.
Oilskin
Oilskin is cotton linen,
silk, or manmade material treated with linseed oil varnish for
waterproofing. Used for rainwear.
Organdy
Organdy is a transparent,
crisp, lightweight; plain-weave fabric made of cotton-spun yarns. The
fabric has been parchmentized to create the crisp, wiry hand.
Organza
Organza is a transparent,
crisp, lightweight; plain-weave fabric made of filament yarns.
Ottoman
Ottoman is a heavy, plain
weave fabric with wide, flat crosswise ribs that are larger and higher
than in faille. It sometimes comes with alternating narrow and wide
ribs. When made of narrow ribs only, it is called soleil. Warp may be
silk or manmade fiber; filling may be cotton, silk, wool, or manmade
fiber. Used for dress coats, suits, and trimmings.
Oxford
Oxford is a plain basket
weave of medium or heavy weight. Made with a variety of cotton, rayon,
or polyester/cotton yarns. The majority of oxfords are of combed yarns,
with heavier filling than warp yarns. Cheaper grades are mixed carded
and combed yarns, and sometimes all carded yarns. Two warp yarns, placed
flat next to each other, are woven over and under one heavier filling
thread. Usually mercerized. A number of variations of this weave are on
the market. For shirtings, dresses, and similar purposes.
Panama
Panama has a plain weave,
usually with cotton warp and worsted filling. Lightweight summer
suiting. Skein or piece-dyed.
Panne satin
Lightweight silk or manmade
fiber satin fabric with very high luster achieved with aid of heavy roll
pressure. Crushes easily. Used for eveningwear.
Panne velvet
A velvet with a special
luster produced by pressing the pile in one direction.
Paper taffeta
Lightweight taffeta with
crisp, paper-like finish.
Percale
Percale is a plain weave,
medium-weight, piece-dyed or printed fabric finished from print cloths
of better quality. Percale is usually a firm, balanced fabric.
Pigment taffeta
Pigment taffeta is taffeta
woven with pigmented yarns. Its surface has a dull appearance.
Piqué
There are two different types
of piqué: (1) Medium- to heavyweight fabric that has a warp or filling
wale or cord, usually warp. A heavy stuffer yarn is used in back of the
cloth; this heavy yarn is caught at intervals by a filling thread.
Groups of fine warp yarns are woven on the surface over the back stuffer
yarn, forming a rib. Many of the cheaper or lighter versions are woven
without this stuffer yarn. Other versions of piqué are irregular or
novelty wales, woven dots, bird's-eye, diamond, square, and ladder
effects. (2) Double-knit fabric usually with fine dots in the stitch
pattern.
Plain weave
Plain weave fabric has a rib
running across the fabric. The rib stands out more than in poplin.
Usually given a high luster, although not always.
Plissé
Plissé is a fabric finished
from cotton-print cloth by printing with a caustic soda (sodium
hydroxide) paste. The paste causes the fabric to shrink, thus creating a
three-dimensional effect. The strip that was printed usually is darker
in piece-dyed goods because the sodium hydroxide increases the dye
absorbency.
Plush
Plush is a compactly woven
fabric with warp pile higher than that of velvet. Made of cotton, wool,
silk, or manmade fiber, often woven as double face fabric and then
sheared apart. Higher pile gives bristly texture. Usually piece-dyed but
may be printed. Used for coats, upholstery.
Polished cotton
Polished cotton is a
medium-weight, plain weave fabric that has been given a glazed-calendar
finish.
Polyester
Polyester is a medium weight
man made fiber that is strong and can be found in many types of fabrics.
Pongee
Pongee is a medium-weight,
balanced, plain weave fabric with a fine regular warp and an irregular
filling. It was originally a tussah or wild-silk fabric, but now pongee
is used to describe a fabric that has the general appearance of fine
warp yarns and irregular filling yarns.
Poplin
Poplin is a medium- to
heavyweight, unbalanced, plain weave, and spun-yarn fabric that is
usually piece dyed. The filling yarns are coarser than the warp yarns.
Poplin has a more pronounced rib than broadcloth.
Power net
Power net is a Raschel-warp
knit in which an inlaid spandex fiber or yarn is used to give high
elongation and elasticity.
Print cloth
"Print cloth" is a general
term used to describe unfinished, medium-weight, plain weave, and cotton
for cotton-blend fabrics. These fabrics can be finished as percale,
embossed, plissé, chintz, cretonne, or polished cotton.
Ramie
Ramie is a fabric similar to
flax with a high natural luster. It has fine, absorbent, and quick
drying fiber, used for apparel, some interior furnishings, rope, and
other industrial uses.
Raschel knit
"Raschel knit" is a general
term for patterned, warp-knit fabric made with coarser yarns than other
warpknit fabrics.
Rayon
Rayon, the first synthetic
fiber produced from mostly cellulose, greatly resembles cotton in its
chemical properties. Rayon is weakened by water and often shrinks after
washing. It can be woven and knitted into many types of fabrics and used
for many purposes.
Sailcloth
Sailcloth is a bottom-weight,
half-basket-weave (2 x 1) unbalanced fabric. It may be made of spun- or
textured-filament yarns. It can be piece dyed or printed.
Sateen
Sateen is a cotton fabric
usually woven so that the surface is smooth and the finish lustrous,
resembling satin. Can be either a strong, warp-face sateen or softer
filling-face sateen. Often, though not always, filling sateens have a
softer finish than warp sateens.
Satin
Satin was originally silk,
but is now also made of filament manmade fibers with a highly lustrous
surface and (usually) a dull back. Made in different weights according
to its uses, which vary from lingerie and dress goods to drapery and
upholstery fabrics. May be made with a cotton back. Sometimes
double-faced for use as ribbon.
Satin crepe
Satin crepe is a satin weave
of silk or manmade fiber with a crepe-twist filling. As the fabric is
reversible, interesting effects can be obtained by contrasting the
surfaces. Used for dresses, blouses, and linings. Also called crepe-back
satin.
Scrim
Scrim has a durable plain
weave. Generally play yarns and low thread count. Somewhat similar to
voile but a much lower thread count. Cheesecloth with a stiffening
finish is often referred to as scrim. Comes in many variations. Usually
has a selvage. Generally carded, but a few combed varieties.
Seersucker
Seersucker is a category of
light-to medium-weight fabrics, of cotton or manmade fiber, of plain or
crepe weave, with crinkled stripes in cloth made by alternating tight
and slack twist warp yarns. Usually with dyed wrap yarn producing
stripes. Imitations are chemically treated or embossed plissé. Used for
summer suits, dresses, or bedspreads.
Serge
"Serge" refers to twill-weave
fabrics with a flat, right-hand wale. The interlacing pattern is 2/2.
The fabric is often wool or wool-like.
Shagbark
Shagbark is usually gingham
with an occasional warp yarn under slack tension. During weaving, the
slack-tension yarns create a loop at intervals giving the fabric a
unique surface appearance.
Shantung
Shantung is a plain weave
that has a rib effect formed by slub-filling yarns. Certain parts of the
yarn are not given the usual number of twists. These places form the
slub in the rib. Made of cotton, silk, rayon and other manmade fibers.
Low in luster, heavier and rougher than pongee. Sometimes used to
describe a heavy grade of pongee made in China. Also called: nankeen,
rajah, and tussah.
Sharkskin
"Sharkskin" is a term
descriptively applied to wool fabrics woven in two and two right-hand
twill, with a one and one color arrangement of yarns in the warp and
filling. This combination of weave and color results in color lines
running diagonally to the left, opposed to the direction of the twill
lines, and a distinctly sleek appearance and feel that suggests the
texture of the skin of the shark. Also made of rayon, acetate,
triacetate, other fibers, and blends. Used for suiting, sportswear.
Sheers
Sheers are a class of thin,
lightweight fabrics, with open weave constructions. May be made of any
natural or manmade fiber.
Sheetings
Plain weave sheetings are
mostly carded but occasionally combed yarns in all weights; light,
medium, and heavy. Generally about the same number of yarns in warp as
in filling, but often warp yarns are heavier than filling. Sheetings
come in both wide and narrow widths. Yarn sizes range from 10s to 30s.
Maybe made of cotton or any other major natural or manmade fiber.
Shetland
There are three different
types of Shetland: (1) Originally a soft, napped fabric made of wool
from the Shetland Islands. Herringbone twill is common. (2) Soft,
knitted fabric of Shetland wool. (3) A woven or knitted fabric with a
soft hand resembling that of Shetland but does not contain that wool.
Silesia
Silesia is generally a
lightweight cotton twill lining with a calendered glaze.
Silk
Silk is a natural fiber
produced from the silk worm. First made into beautiful exotic fabrics by
the Chinese hundreds of years ago. There are many different types of
silk fabrics produced from this fine natural fiber.
Slipper satin
Slipper satin is a compactly
woven, strong fabric originally used for women's evening shoes. Made of
silk or manmade filament fibers in white, solid colors, and brocade
designs.
Spandex
Spandex is the generic name
for synthetic fibers of a segmented polyurethane composition. Spandex
fiber threads are man-made elastic threads with properties better than
natural rubber, which has been developed into many new stretch fabrics.
Sued cloth
"Sued cloth" is a general
term for heavyweight fabrics. Suiting can be any fiber content or fabric
construction that works well in men's or women's suits.
Surah
Surah was originally made of
silk, but is now also made of manmade filament fibers. It is a soft,
supple fabric of twill weave that may come in plaid or a printed
pattern. It's used for neckwear, scarves, blouses, and dresses.
Taffeta
Taffeta, a smooth, closely
woven fabric in a plain weave was originally made of silk and is now
often made of manmade filament fibers. Taffeta is often weighted to
produce its characteristic crispness. It can come in a solid color, have
one color warp and another color filling to produce iridescence (taffeta
with this changeable color effect is sometimes called "shot tafetta),
plaid stripes, and may occasionally have a print or moiré pattern. It is
used for dresses, suits, coats, and lingerie.
Tapestry
Tapestry is a firm, heavy,
stiff, jacquard-weave fabric made with several warp and filling yarn
sets. Tapestry is also the term used for fabric made by hand in which
the filling yarns are discontinuous. In handmade tapestries, the filling
yarn is used only in areas where a color is desired.
Tarpaulin
Tarpaulin is waterproofed
canvas sometimes made of nylon or other manmade fiber.
Terrycloth (terry)
Terrycloth is a
slack-tension, warp-yarn pile fabric. Terrycloth may have loops on one
or both sides of the fabric. Terrycloth may have a jacquard pattern and
may be made with plied yarns for durability. There are also weft or
filling-knit terrycloths.
Ticking
A variety of fabrics are
known as "ticking." The main weave is a closely-woven, thick yarn twill.
Spaced, colored, and natural or white yarns repeated in the warp, and
all natural or white in the filling, forming a stripe. Several color
combinations used, as blue and white, brown and white, red and white.
Heavy warp-face sateens as well as heavy sheetings are printed and sold
as ticking. Jacquard damask ticking woven in damask effects also sold
for this purpose as well as other fabrics, such as drills.
Toile
There are three general types
of toile: (1) Broad (French) refers to many plain or twill linen
fabrics. (2) Sheer cotton or linen fabrics. (3) Design printed on fabric
or woven in lace.
Transparent velvet
Transparent velvet is a
lightweight, soft, sheer velvet of silk or rayon pile and silk or rayon
back. It drapes well and is often used for evening gowns and negligees.
Tricot
Tricot, a warp-knit fabric
containing mostly manmade filament yarns, has fine vertical wales on its
face and a slightly angled coursewise rib on its back. Tricot may have
stripes, mesh, or patterns in structure. It is used for gloves,
lingerie, and dresses.
Tropical weights
Tropical weights are
lightweight, clear finish, plain weave fabrics of wool or wool/polyester
2/60s or better worsted yarns. It is used for men's and, less
frequently, for women's summer suits. The weave should be firm but open
because the fabric is designed for hot-weather wear.
Tsumugi silk
Tsumugi silk, made in central
Honshu, Japan, is characterized by yarn-dyed striped or plaid patterns.
It has a somewhat coarse, homespun quality and handsome appearance.
Tulle
Tulle is a fine, lightweight,
stiff net of hexagonal mesh generally made of silk, rayon, or nylon.
It's used for ballet costumes, bridal dresses, and veils.
Tweed
"Tweed" is a term broadly
applied to the sturdier types of fabrics made of the coarser grades of
wool. Tweed fabrics originally derived their interest from the color
effects obtained by mixing stock-dyed wools. More recently the term
includes monotones, which derive their interest from weave effects. The
most popular weaves for tweeds are plain, twill, and variations of the
latter. Now also made of other fibers.
Ulster
Ulster is a heavy overcoat
material, loosely woven with right-hand twist warp and left-handed twist
filling. All types of fiber are used and quality varies accordingly. It
is given a long nap that is pressed down.
Ultrasuede®
Ultrasuede® is a trademark of
an imitation suede fabric composed of polyester microfibers combined
with polyurethane foam in a non-woven structure. Hand and appearance
resemble sheep suede.
Velour
Velour is a general term used
to describe pile fabrics. Velours tend to have dense, long, or deep
pile. Velours can be woven or knitted.
Velvet
Velvet is a compact short
warp pile of silk or manmade fiber and usually a cotton or, perhaps,
rayon back. Similar to plush, but has a shorter pile and feels softer.
Velveteen
Velveteen is a filling-pile
fabric made with long floats that are cut in the finishing process. The
ground fabric can have a plain or twill weave. The pile in velveteen is
short. Velveteen is usually a spunyarn fabric.
Vicuña
Vicuña is a short, soft,
exceedingly fine hair fiber that is very valuable because of its limited
supply. It is rarely used by itself, although a few vicuña coats are
manufactured each year. It is sometimes mixed with wool to produce
special soft coating fabrics. The term and certain derived and coined
names have been much misused.
Viyella
Viyella is the trademark for
lightweight British napped fabric usually of two-up and two-down twill
of 55/45 blends of wool and cotton. Some variations in fiber content,
qualities, and weights. Used for shirts, dresses.
Voile
Voile is a soft, yet firm
sheer fabric of plain weave. It's generally made of combed hard-twisted
single yarns, although ply yarns are also used. It has about the same
number of yarns in warp as in filling, which produces a clinging effect.
Occasionally dots are woven in, and a crisp finish given the fabric;
then is sold as dotted Swiss. Used for children's wear, blouses, and
dresses.
Waffle cloth
Similar to piqué in texture.
Waffle cloth has a honeycomb weave made on dobby loom. Usually of
cotton.
Whipcord
Whipcord is a compact,
medium-weight fabric of prominent right-hand 63° warp-faced twill. It
may be made of cotton and may be mercerized. It's often made of
good-quality woolen or worsted yarn. May be of rayon, nylon, other
manmade, or blends. Very serviceable. Used for suits, coats, and
uniforms.
Wigan
Wigan is usually made of
printcloth or lightweight sheetings. It is dyed in dark colors and
starched and calendered. It's used mostly for interlinings.
Wool
Wool is a natural fiber that
is clipped from a sheep (fleece wool), which is then washed, combed, and
spun into yarns of various qualities for a variety of different uses.
Wool has been produced in many countries for hundreds of years and
because of its warm, comfortable feel against the skin has many clothing
uses.
Wool crepe
Wool crepe is a lightweight
worsted fabric with a more or less crinkly appearance, obtained by using
warp yarns that are tightly twisted in alternate directions. The term is
often applied to lightweight worsted fabrics for women's wear that have
little or no crepe surface. |
